The sea gold that bewitched the sense of smell

Ambergris is one of the oldest and most fascinating raw materials in the perfumery industry. Its mythical character is linked to its origin and to the long process that transforms it from animal secretion to a real sea treasure, but even more it is linked to the use that over the centuries has been made of this "gold". Its properties have been known since ancient times when the modern concept of perfume still didn’t exist, and the term exclusively indicated the release of an odor through the combustion of a product and the subsequent release of smoke (from the Latin per fumum, through the smoke). Some religious processes consisted of burning wood and resin as a gift to the gods which could be reached by the released smoke. The strong persistence of ambergrey’s natural scent has given it an immense success in the perfumery sector, which is why it is often used in the base notes of the formulations. As its creation takes a long time, the availability of the raw material is lower thathe widespread use and demand. However, in 1950 the Firmenich company chemically synthesized the Ambrox molecule from ambrein allowing a continuous production that can satisfy great demand.
Ambre Gris
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eastern notes
Earth notes
In nature

In nature

Ambergris - so called to distinguish it from the more common vegertal amber - is produced by the sperm whale as its intestinal secretion. The material that is expelled has color, consistency and above all smell characteristics that are far from those of the product used in perfumery. The sun and the natural oxidation caused by sea water have to do their "magic" for several years before the matter can solidify and, when reaching the coasts, be collected. The singular process of production and processing of the raw material, operated solely by nature and therefore long and unpredictable, combined to the extraordinary and fascinating odorous properties that I have indicated above, have for centuries given it a mythical aura which is now a symbol of glamor and allure for everyone.

Curiosity

  • -The most known property is the aphrodisiac which is why it is said that Casanova used to dissolve it in drinks once a day
  • - for the same purpose, King Charles II of England used to eat it on eggs
  • - The Egyptians were among the first to use gray amber’s smoke for therapeutic purposes
  • - Both in smoke and by ingestion, the medical effect was comparable to a modern estrogen cure.
  • - During the Middle Ages people believed that inhaling amber would protect from the plague thanks to its strong and persistent smell
My Ambre Gris

My Ambre Gris

Noble material and at the same time one of the symbols of the history of perfumery, it could not have failed to gain my nose’s attention. And it was love at first sight! I met her through my path of research and rediscovery of raw materials and I wanted to enhance its most flowery and woody notes, with less emphasis on the animalized facets, to make it less intrusive, but more elegant and round. From the top notes of lemon and pink pepper to the flowery ones of jasmine and Bulgarian rose, everything prepares the arrival of the queen, amber, with all its sensuality. This is how my Ambre Gris was born, to be loved by everyone, men and women, to hold your hand in a journey around the world touching Morocco, India, Bulgaria and Italy with its olfactory notes, allowing you to mind travel in elegance.

Discover my story in scent world

Evolution ofShape